Something out of the main subject

For all of you out there that have a Cockatiel as a pet I would like to tell you something. Cockatiel is an exotic bird as are all of the other parrots. So if you want to learn more about this and all the other exotic birds I thing that you will have to visit some exotic places and see how do Cockatiels live in wild nature. If you are interested in visiting exotic places that will ofer you a luxury holiday click here

Newbie's Guide to Cockatiel Food

It's very important that you feed your cockatiel an appropriate diet. Otherwise, you'll open the door to a wide range of health problems for your bird. This article will teach you a few things you need to know about cockatiel food.

Fruits/Veggies

Fruits and vegetables are an important part of your bird's diet. You should feed them on a daily basis. He will enjoy carrots, grapes, apples, spinach, and peas. You can also feed him yams, sweet potatoes, watercress and corn. If you don't have any of these available, then baby food with vegetables and fruit is a suitable alternative.

Seeds

Virtually everyone knows that birds love seeds. So, you should feed your cockatiel seeds too. There are a variety of seeds you can feed him. Some of the most popular choices include white millet, sunflower, sesame, flax, and hemp seeds.

Nuts

Nuts are also suitable cockatiel food. These birds enjoy eating almonds, cashews, walnuts, and pecans. Macadamia and pistachio nuts are also fine. You should be careful not to feed too many nuts because they can be high in fat, which can cause health problems.

Protein

If you want your bird to be completely healthy, you should make sure he has plenty of protein in his diet. Birds that are molting will especially benefit from extra protein. Fish, cottage cheese, chicken, lean meats, and turkey are all good sources of protein. Eggs that have been scrambled or hard-boiled are also good.

Treats

Every good bird deserves a treat every now and then. You can feed him your favorite cereal such as Cornflakes, Rice Krispies, Cheerios, or Froot Loops. Unsalted popcorn also serves as a nice treat. Besides these foods, your local pet shop should have treats that your cockatiel will enjoy.

Cinnamon Cockatiel - Main Characteristics and Free Tips

A cinnamon cockatiel also goes by the tender names as the Cinnamon Tiel and the Isabelle cockatiel. Just like other mutation of cockatiel, they are short of having gray tint that is common in usual grey cockatiels. The warmth of the cinnamon color is enhanced with the yellow tails and heads. Their plumage's color varies from balmy tannish-gray to chocolate brown.

The other exquisite variations of the cinnamon cockatiel are the cinnamon pearl cockatiels and cinnamon pied cockatiel. They are very popular species of parrots. Cockatiels are hardy, they have the capacity to easily breed and it can easily handle changes. Most pet owners prefer them over other birds since they are not as noisy as the other species. They are also even relaxed albeit when you leave them alone in their cage or area
Cinnamon cockatiel as well as other cockatiel breeds, belongs to the parrot family because of their beak's shape. They are also sometimes known as cockatoos with their tiny head crests. Conversely, cockatiels have lengthy tails than cockatoos. These tails make up almost half of their entire length. This quality gives them more resemblance to a parakeet.

Cinnamon cockatiel consumes nuts, veggies, sprouts, fruits, pellets and seeds. They need an airy cage wherein they spend quality time to fly here and there and play with their toys. They have developed as nomadic creatures, enduring diverse and rugged habitations. Cockatiels relentlessly move, changing locations along with the cyclic instability of food and water supply. This kind of habitation and the cockatiel's adaptive approach made them fit as a pet.

The distinctive head crest of a cinnamon cockatiel erects when these birds are thrilled or stimulated. This will be one of the signals that you will notice and sometimes will find very amusing. Also, the crest seems to flatten when they are angry, defensive and meek. It is neither erect nor flat when they are in a normal state. As a pet owner, you should master these so that you can handle it well.

Similar to lutino cockatiel, cinnamon cockatiel is developed from mutations. They are one of the sex-recessive cockatiel mutations. The gene has an effect on their melanin pigment and impedes the gray and the black pigments but the pigment amount is not actually changed, just the coloring. Their brown pigment goes to their eyes, beak, legs, feet and feathers. The existence of yellow color in the chest and feathers is evident in males and female cinnamons.

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Learn Cockatiel Training Techniques Like a Pro

Now's the time to learn how to provide proper cockatiel training for your feathered pet! You'll be glad you became as good as a pro trainer when you bring this beautiful and highly trainable 'Tiel to live with you and your family. Or maybe you already have a 'rebel bird' on your hands and you're pulling your hair out with exasperation over his screaming, biting and hissing. He's never happy and you certainly aren't! You wonder where is all the anticipated fun of hearing him talk, perform cute tricks and hop gently on your hand? By now, you are convinced that this is one crazy bird and definitely needs professional help!

Don't worry, it's not too late! Pro cockatiel training techniques are easy as well as fun to learn even for beginners. You can see positive results in your 'Tiel literally within a couple of weeks if you learn some basic training techniques.

Good Cockatiel Training (or NOT!)Cockatiels are highly trainable and it's always quite obvious whether or not they have received good training and care. Cockatiels are lovely birds that can make wonderful pets when when trained and cared for correctly. I remember a few years ago when my mother took in a stray, one legged creature that my brother had randomly found hopping in the grass. The attractive cockatiel had unfortunately lost a leg and may have been left to fend for himself or perhaps he had flown away from his home in an attempt to find freedom.

In any case, it was obvious that the 'Tiel had been handled affectionately and trained conscientiously. He was not too much worse for the wear even though having endured for some time outside. He grew to love my mother, who let him fly to her shoulder and perch while she ate spaghetti. She could hand him a long noodle and he would grab it with his beak, then munch the length of it until it disappeared. His whistling and pleasant chatter was also fine company for her.

Soon after his arrival to the family, my dad built him a small perch just above the doorway where Pete enjoyed surveying the household activity. This 'Tiel was a case in point of a well mannered, sweet bird who just needed a little TLC. Needless to say, he endeared himself to everyone...especially my mom.

Adequate Cockatiel Training is Absolutely Necessary

'Tiels can be quite obnoxious and unmanageable if not trained well. On the flip side of this story is the undeniable fact that unhappy, untrained cockatiels can just as easily make for rambunctious, obnoxious parrots that can make an owner regret ever bringing the beauty home! The truth is, however, that most problems with cockatiels originate as a result of poor handling, care and training by their owners.

They are not birds that can tolerate isolation and neglect by their human flock. So, if you have already purchased a cockatiel or are considering it, be sure to be prepared to provide cockatiel training that is necessary to insure your bird's contentment as well as your future enjoyment of your pet.

"Must Do's" for Cockatiel Training

Cockatiels require interaction with humans and lots of exercise time. Also, you should teach him how to sit on your hand or finger, not to bite, spit or hiss and how to obey simple commands. These are beginner cockatiel training requirements.

Fun Rewards of Cockatiel Training

After teaching your 'Tiel the basics of proper manners as well as caring for his health needs, the fun stuff can then be added to the delight of everyone. You can teach your parrot to talk, perform cute tricks and entertain with a plethora of playful antics specific only to cockatiels. Be sure to learn how to provide proper cockatiel training so that you and your pet will have an enjoyable relationship that will last for years!

Cockatiel Tricks - 6 Things You Need To Do To Get Your Parrot To Wave in Less Than 3 Days

Teaching your little feathered friend to do cockatiel tricks is 1 of the most rewarding things you could do. Not only is it hilarious for you to watch, it also build a very strong bond between you and your parrot.

Most parrots are very shy when they are young, or when they are unfamiliar with you. So it may take a while for him to warm to you. If this is the case you must try to be a little patient with him.

You will need to spend quality time talking to him, and rewarding him with his favorite food. Taking such action will start the trust between both of you.

Building a strong bond with your parrot allows him to build a trust with you, when you get his trust it will be a lot easier to teach him tricks. Anyone can teach a dog to sit, stay and come on command, but how many people do you know have a parrot that waves, rolls over and comes when you call him?

Believe it or not cockatiel tricks are extremely easy to teach, most of the basic cockatiel tricks can be taught with-in 72 hours.

Think how funny it will be when your friends witness your parrot waving, or doing simple card tricks. Card tricks are 1 of our specialties and any type of parrot can learn them.

Teaching your parrot to wave is as easy as 6 things.

• Make time - Make a specific time every day,15 minutes is all you will need.
• Decide On A command - Pick a particular command you want to use such as,wave or just use a clicker.
• Take action - Get him to step on your finger and then removing your finger before he gets on.
• Have patience - Be Patient with him and keep going over the trick till he gets it
• Give praise - Make sure you praise him every time he gets it right,and try to make a big deal out of it.
• Give rewards - Reward him with his favorite food when he gets the trick right.
• Keep Repeating - repeat the same actions over, and over till he knows the trick really well.

So would you like a performing parrot?

How to Groom Your Cockatiel

Your cockatiel has grooming needs. Your cockatiel likes to be clean, so you must ensure that it is able to bathe regularly. Your cockatiel will also need to have its nails and flight feathers trimmed periodically to ensure her safety.

Some say the cockatiel's beak also needs trimming, but I have yet to do mine. If you give your cockatiel enough to chew on, the beak should remain suitably sharpened and trimmed. If however your birds beak does become overgrown, leave it to your veterinarian to take charge, as the beak does have a surprising number of blood vessels that can be severed if you try yourself.

If your cockatiel does have an overgrown beak, it can also indicate that your cockatiel is suffering from liver damage, scaly mites or a virus, all of which will need veterinary care.

As far as bathing goes there are a number of ways to achieve this. One way is to mist your cockatiel lightly with a clean spray bottle filled with warm water. Another way is to allow your cockatiel to bathe in your kitchen sink or bathroom basin under a slow stream of running water or try taking the cockatiel into the shower with you. No soap please, water is normally sufficient. I find my birds enjoy a bird bath in the bottom of their cage on a warm day, and they also love to be sprayed with a mist of water. Bathing is important to enable your cockatiel to keep its feathers clean and healthy.

If you bathe your bird, do so early in the day so that the feathers have a chance to dry out completely before dark. You can also try the hair dryer on a low setting and once your cockatiel gets used to this it will find it most enjoyable.

There is no need to purchase mite products that hang on the bird cage or feather conditioning products that are applied directly to the cockatiels feathers. Well cared for cockatiels won't have these problems, and the products can actually cause more harm than good. Conditioners will just cause your cockatiel to over preen himself in a effort to remove the oil, which can cause feather loss. Fumes from some of these products can also cause respiratory complications.

Your cockatiel will need his nails trimmed periodically to prevent them getting too long and catching on toys or perches. You must only remove tiny portions of the nail, as you don't want to hit the blood supply. I prefer to file them down a little. If the nail does bleed, apply flour and direct pressure to stop the bleeding quickly.

If your cockatiel is tame, you will want to trim its wings as well, as you don't want him to fly away accidentally. Don't trim too much away as you still want your cockatiel to glide and not flop to the floor. Wing clipping is an article on its own, but don't attempt to do this without knowing what to do first, as just snipping away at the feathers can cause damage to the wing tips if you don't know what you are doing.

The New Cockatiel in Your Home

Well now you've done it. You visited the neighborhood pet store one too many times and that beautiful cocktail near the front of the store has given you the eye and stolen your heart. (Why do they put these charming birds so near the entrance where it is impossible to miss them?) Before you realized it the credit card came out, a few words were spoken between you and the store owner, your budget was suddenly busted and lo and behold the bird now belongs to you.

This new member of the family will bring some changes to your home. Some will be obvious while others will surprise you. Your experience with the new bird will be much more satisfying if you make yourself aware of what you should expect and be prepared. Hopefully you only bought one to start with. Bringing two birds in at once may be more than you can handle if you are a novice bird keeper. Adding more than one bird at a time could also place lots of anxiety on the birds.

You will find it much easier to establish a bond with your new bird if it is the only one in your home at this time. Your bird will of course be unsettled by it's new surroundings and it could take several weeks to adjust. The first thing you may notice is that your new bird demands lots of attention. This surprises many new bird owners who are used to dealing with other types of pets who do very well on their own.

If you allow your cockatiel freedom outside it's cage do not be surprised to find him following you about the house as you attend to your chores. You may find him suddenly alighting on your shoulder and of course like any pet he will always be open to accepting treats.

All of this friendly and more often than not welcome attention from your bird may sometimes be diminished as you struggle with the messy cleanup which is always part of cockatiel ownership. There are no litter boxes for these birds. They tend to do their business wherever and whenever it suits them. It will also be necessary for the family to adjust to some new noises throughout the home. This may be unwelcome during times that the home is normally quiet. The birds do not come with on and off switches.

However the companionship that you will feel as the bird alights on your shoulder as you sit quietly reading will most times override your discomfort at the new chores and other changes your new pet will bring to your home. Most cocktail owners feel they are repaid many times over by the charm and beauty of these intelligent and friendly creatures.

The Two Best Methods of Training Cockatiels

Cockatiels make wonderful pets, and with a little time and patience, training cockatiels becomes a breeze.

There are two methods for training cockatiels - the slow way and the quick way. Both these methods work equally well for the long term tameness of your cockatiel. Both these methods work best on very young cockatiels. The older the cockatiel is the more difficult it will be to train.

Training Cockatiels - The First Method

The first method for training cockatiels takes time a patience. It can take you anything from a few days to a couple of weeks.

Start by putting your cockatiel's cage in a busy area of your house where there is lots of activity and noise. Once your bird has gotten used to this environment, and doesn't get a fright each time someone enters the room, it is time to start talking to him in a soothing voice, and let him follow you in his cage from room to room.

When you start finger training your cockatiel, slowly put your hand into his cage with the index finger pointed forward and move it slowly towards your birds chest. Keep talking to him in a soothing voice until eventually he lets you scratch his head.

Once he lets you scratch his head, it is time to start coercing him to step onto your finger. Gently press your finger against his chest until he climbs onto it. Once he gets this right start moving your hand around the cage and transferring him from perch to perch.

Before you attempt to take him out, make sure all the windows are closed and the blinds are drawn, as anything can give your cockatiel a fright and cause him to take off. Slowly remove him from the cage on your finger, and train him to walk from index finger to index finger. If he flies away, do not chase him, rather wait for him to land before approaching him slowly.

Training Cockatiels - The Second Method

With this method for training cockatiels, you will need to make sure the your birds wings are clipped.

Close all the windows and doors in the room you want to work in. Take the cockatiel out of its cage and try to make him stand on your finger by cupping him gently. At first he will naturally climb to your top finger and try to fly away. As soon as he flutters to the floor you need to pick him up and try again, until he stays on your finger. He will usually comply after a while out of sheer exhaustion.

Once you have gotten him to stay on your finger make him climb from one index finger to another by gently pressing his chest with your index finger so that he is forced to climb onto it.

Cockatiel - What is It?

If you have not heard of cockatiels yet you will probably be asking your self what a cockatiel is. A cockatiel is the tiniest specie of the parrot family. It is scientifically known as the "Nymphicus hollandicusî and is sometimes called the Wiero or the Quarrion. They are the simplest pet to breed and are known to be the household pet all over the universe. For caged birds, they are number 2 in popularity next to the Budgerigar.

Cockatiels are popularly known as the crested parrot or the small cockatoo as they are the smallest in the cockatoo family. They prefer to stay in the bush lands, wet lands, scrublands and all over the regions of inland Australia.

A typical cockatiel is colored gray in the wild. Domesticated cockatiels however are bred to have different shades of peach, orange, gray, white and yellow. Cockatiels with these colors are known as silver, pied, pearl, cinnamon, and lutino. They have the power to manipulate their moods and manner when they are afraid, ill and inquisitive through their crest which is their most distinctive mark.

Household cockatiels or cockatiels that are domesticated can live from 15 to 20 years and sometimes even 30 years. Living in the wild can make their life span shorter because of the dangers they can encounter in the wild such as predation. Even so, they are famous to be high in spirits and can be very social when with other birds. They fly in pairs or in flock typically in Australia ñ their resident.

Cockatiels have a social nature in them which makes them great pets. They are sometimes naughty and are intelligent and curious. A cockatiel that has been domesticated would love being with their owners and love hanging out on their breeder's head or shoulders. They would even join their owners in the bath and when having dinner. Most of the cockatiels that can whistle and speak well are males.

The time you will spend with your bird pet is important when planning to have a cockatiel pet. They tend to be bored when they are lonely and if you know that you won't be able to spend much time with your pet, getting another one for him to have a company will be a good idea. Just remember that having two birds will give you a hard time domesticating them and they will most likely ignore you because of the other bird that they are living with.

If this is the case, make sure that you get your birds one at a time and that the bird is cultivated before bringing him home so he can be sociable to you and other humans. Keep the new bird away from the others until the time that they are used to having him around and that he is receptive to people. Ask for handfed cockatiels for best results.

The Secrets to Becoming a Good Cockatiel Breeder

Becoming a cockatiel breeder takes a lot of effort to know how to get started. First thing that you should know is that becoming a cockatiel breeder would need you to be interested in cockatiels. Cockatiels are very intelligent and charming. They can live for a very long time and breeding them would need you to have a good relationship with your cockatiels.

When breeding cockatiels, cockatiel breeders should make sure that the birds he is breeding are compatible. It is always easier to breed birds that are bred thank those birds that are from the wild.

You will need to observe your birds for a couple of weeks or months to know if they are compatible and well matched. There are some males that are insistent and should be removed and be transferred to another place for a few days. If the cockatiel is still insistent even after being removed, look for another mate before breeding.

If you find cockatiels that are compatible, as cockatiel breeders, you should start building nest boxes in preparation for the birds mating. It is suggested that you place the nest boxes somewhere you can see them easily and is shaded. The nest box should be made of a thick wood and the size should have the length and size of your bird without including the tail and should have a four sided figure base so it can stand the different weathers.

Breeders must give their bird a cuttlefish bone, tonic seeds with vitamins that can provide embryos with a great protein base that they can grow on, oil seeds, and liquid or powdered concentrates. Foods that are filled with calcium will also be good for your birds. To keep them off rickets, it is important that milk and bread is given as well.

The weight of the chicks should also be closely watched during the first few weeks. Stop hand feeding or fostering your chicks if you see that they are not gaining any weight or are losing weight. When they turn at least three weeks old and maximum of three months old, they can now be on their own to feed themselves. At this time, they should separate them and move them to another place because if they don't, the chicks can be targets of attacks and be killed by their own parents, most especially the cock.

Cockatiel breeders should also know how to differentiate birds. This is needed especially when birds are ready to join other birds in their cage or when they are having the adult plumage. Leg bands and rings would be ideal to use whether metal or plastic. Breeders use plastic bands for the younger birds and closed rings for chicks that are 5 to 6 days of age. Color coding the rings of your birds would be best.

Breeders must bear in mind that being able to raise cockatiels in a good manner is an art. They must provide their birds with a big cage, a lot of space, toys and most importantly, attention.

What You Need To Know About Cockatiels

Cockatiels are originally from Australia and are the smallest bird in the native cockatoo family in Australia. Wild cockatiels can be find in Australia's Ouback where they inhabit wetlands, scrub and bush lands.

Cockatiels are prized pets around the world. In fact, the are the second most popular pet birds after Budgerigars or Budgies. They are affectionate birds with sweet temperaments. They rarely talk but they are great whistlers! They can even learn to whistle specific tunes!

Cockatiels are known for the distinctive crest on the top of their heads. Cockatiels use the crest to express their state of being. He or she raises the crest when startled or excited and flattens is when angry or defensive. You'll know your cockatiel is flirting when the crest is flat but protrudes towards the back!

Males and females both have crests but slightly different coloring. Males have yellow or white faces while females have gray or light gray faces. Both have the characteristic round, orange cheek patches on the sides of the face. However, the orange is generally more vibrant in males and muted in females. There are some temperament differences between the two as well. If you want an affectionate pet, females tend to be more loving. On the other hand, males tend to be better whistlers and are more likely to learn words.

Cockatiels can live 15-20 years in captivity with the right diet and exercise. The oldest recorded cockatiel lived to a ripe old age of 36! For this reason, you need to be ready for a commitment before you get a cockatiel.

Cockatiels generally make good pets. As with other pets, they all have different personalities as well as qualities based on how they were raised. Some birds are very sociable while others can be shy. If handled often by a patient owner, cockatiels tame very quickly compared to some parrot species.

To check the temperament of a cockatiel before you buy him or her, put your finger out near the bird. If he or she hops on your finger, they were likely hand raised. If the bird refuses to get on your finger or bites at you, move on. This is very important since a cranky cockatiel is not good for you or your family. Well raised cockatiels love people. Once they are used to you, they'll crave a scratch on the head or ride on your shoulder.

Cockatiels can live alone but will need more attention from you. They will begin to see you as their mate and will want to be with you a lot. Its not uncommon for a cockatiel to call out if you leave the room. This is a way to find out where you are and if you're okay. Many owners will whistle back just to let their pet know they are okay. If you can't spend a lot of time with your cockatiel, seriously consider getting a pair for companionship.

Cockatiels need large cages that give them room to fly and climb. Dimensions should be 20 inch in width and length and 26 inches high - at minimum. As with all bird cages, bigger is better. The best cages will have horizontal bars making it easy to climb. Most importantly, bars should be no more than 3/4 inches apart to avoid accidents and injuries. You should also include a variety of perches with different lengths and widths for exercise.

Placement of the cage is also important. Cockatiels don't like strong smells like air fresheners, cleaners, smoke, etc. Cockatiels have very sensitive respiratory systems, so some of these can actually kill your bird. One thing to always avoid is exposure to Teflon pans. They give off a gas at high temperatures that can definitely kill a cockatiel.

To keep your cockatiel healthy, clean the cage once a week with a cleaner made specifically for bird cages. Once a month, you need to disenfect the entire cage using 3/4 cups of bleach mixed with 1 gallon of water. After, rinse the cage thoroughly and put it in the sun to dry. Toss out any toys or perches that you can't clean thoroughly.

If you're considering a cockatiel as a pet, these tips should help you make your decision. Talk to other people who own cockatiels about their experiences as well. Cockatiels are great little birds for the right owners.

Cockatiels As Pets!

Cockatiels are the smallest member of the cockatoo family and are native only to Australia where they are found largely in arid or semi-arid country, but always near water. Sometimes hundreds will flock around a single such body of water.

Male cockatiels do not display any obvious courtship rituals. Females do not talk, however, male cockatiels can learn to talk and are quite vocal. Male cockatiels often have a very deep yellow face and bright orange cheek patches at maturity. Female cockatiels will retain their immature coloration and the barring of the underside of the tail.

Both males and females that share incubation responsibilities. Cockatiels are prolific breeders and they will breeding in captivity all year long, if allowed to do so. However, clutches should be limited to no more than 2 per year, the amount that avian veterinarians consider normal.

Playful and easily amused with simple toys cockatiels are a lot easier to care for because of their size. You don't need a very large cage like you would need if you had a cockatoo. However, cockatiels live for about 20 years, so a long term commitment is required.

Cockatiels are playful birds, and adding toys such as bells and mini ladders (a cockatiel favorite) are important. Because cockatiels love to chew, toys must be free of toxic metals, hooks, sharp objects or small, easily consumed components. A cockatiel will gladly entertain themselves in front of a mirror for hours while whistling or talking. Keep your cockatiels *away* from any electrical wires and equipment!

Cockatiels are naturally dusty birds because of the powder down they produce. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have a HEPA filter running near the cage, especially if a member of the household has asthma, allergies, or respiratory disease. One or two birds that are bathed often and whose cages are kept very clean are not much of a problem, but of course the amount of dust will increase with each additional bird.

Cockatiels are reluctant to accept new foods and will accept few fruits and vegetables. They do tend to enjoy whole wheat bread, grated carrots and shredded greens. Lots of water and sun light are needed to keep cockatiels happy.

Cockatiels are very susceptible to strong smells such as insecticides, smoke and air fresheners. Their respiratory system is so delicate some of these can kill a cockatiel.

Cockatiels are a great first bird along with the Budgie Parakeet. A tame hand-fed cockatiel will most likely be loving and gentle. Cockatiels are the gentle ambassadors of the bird world. Many aviary lovers owe their passion for birds to a pet Cockatiel they owned or encountered in childhood.

Cockatiels are very intelligent social companions and will provide you with love and enjoyment throughout their life  if you care for and love them properly! ~ Anthony Benjamin ~

Training Cockatiels

Cockatiel owners love their birds. They want them to be healthy and happy. However, sometimes they develop bad habits such as plucking their feathers, biting, and screaming. Not only does feather plucking make the bird unsightly, it is not healthy. While other behaviors are certainly annoying, feather plucking can be quite traumatic for both owner and bird. The good news is, training cockatiels not to pluck their feathers is possible, and it is necessary.

Veterinarians estimate that nearly half of all domesticated birds over-preen or pluck their feathers. Cockatiels are more predisposed to doing this. Some veterinarians believe the reason is because they live in large flocks in the wild. Once separated from this large flock, they become fearful and anxious. This may lead them to over-preen.

Can we know what causes a bird to begin self-mutilating? Scientists believe the reasons are medical, behavioral, or environmental. Here are some possible causes:

Medical - Viral, bacterial, or fungal infections may be the culprit. However, external parasites, an allergic reaction, or nutritional deficiency may also be to blame.

Behavioral - Is your cockatiel nearing breeding season? Hormones may be the culprit; they may be plucking feathers to breed and prepare a nest. Birds may pluck feathers to incubate their young, pay attention and determine if this might be an issue. They may also pluck their feathers out of sexual frustration. 

Does your bird have toys that will provide mental stimulation? If not, it may be simply bored and needs something to chew on or keep itself occupied.

Environmental - Perhaps your bird cage is too small, the lighting is all wrong, or your home needs additional humidity. The quality of food they are fed may also be a determining factor.

Whatever the cause, the important thing to do is to stop this activity. If you don't stop it early on, it will progressively worsen. A bald bird is not a pretty bird, or a healthy bird. It will also be more difficult to keep it free of infection or keep it warm.

Take your cockatiel to a veterinarian and have them thoroughly checked out. Rule out medical reasons. They may have developed itchy skin, feathers aren't growing in properly, or their skin is irritated so they need to itch. Change their diet to something that is more balanced, or do whatever else the veterinarian recommends.

If the reason isn't physical or environmental, they may simply pluck their feathers out of boredom. It should be noted that boredom is often the cause of other unwanted behaviors like aggression, biting and screaming. Training is the answer for all undesirable behaviors. Training cockatiels to do tricks may help alleviate their stress or boredom which leads them to pluck their feathers. Teach them some tricks that will occupy their time or give them some new toys to play with. Keep an eye on your cockatiel and see if these additions to their lives illicit a change in their behavior.

Be sure that you're not inadvertently reinforcing their feather plucking. If you notice them over-preening, don't rush over to fuss at them. If they are already starved for your attention, they may continue to pluck feathers just to get you to spend time with them. Like children, they may think that any attention given to them is better than having no attention at all.

Training cockatiels also includes redirecting their feather plucking behavior. Watch your cockatiel. When you see it start to chew on its feathers, do something to draw their attention away from what they're doing. Then when they stop plucking at its feathers, praise them and give it attention.

There are no quick fixes when it comes to stopping this feather plucking behavior. If your bird is just beginning to do this, it will take the same amount of time for it to re-learn as it did for it to begin. However, once your bird has begun to pluck its feathers, it may always have a tendency to do so.

Training cockatiels to stop plucking their feathers, and to eliminate other unwanted behaviors, is not an easy task. It will take time, dedication, and consistency on the part of everyone who is around the bird. Begin now to address the problem, don't let it go. Take your cockatiel to the vet and have them checked out. If there isn't a medical reason for the activity, double your efforts to involve the cockatiel in family life, and you may find that the activity stops.

Tips For Teaching Cockatiels to Talk

Teaching cockatiels to talk is much more complicated than merely repeating a phrase over and over again. Your bird will only imitate those noises that have caught its interest anyway. The cockatiel has a very reedy voice quality, and tends to sound like a child with a cold. Cockatiels do not normally learn a large vocabulary of words, but are capable of whistling a variety of tunes.

When first teaching your cockatiel to talk, start by teaching him to say a word. It is far easier to teach him to whistle, so if he learns to whistle first, he will battle even more to say his first words.

Teaching cockatiels to talk is a little more difficult to do than teaching other members of the parrot family, but it is very possible. Here are some pointers to help you with teaching your cockatiel to talk.

The male cockatiels will talk a lot easier than the female cockatiels, so if you want a talking bird, I recommend a male cockatiel. I have only managed to teach one female to talk easily, but this was an exception to the rule.

Cockatiels will only learn words that they like. If they show an interest in what you say, then it will be much easier to teach them that particular word.

When teaching your cockatiel to talk, start off by choosing something very simple, like a word with one syllable. The trick is to keep repeating this word during each and every training session. Don't move onto any other words until he has mastered this one.

It is a good idea to have some treats ready. If he shows an interest in what you are saying, give him a treat and this will encourage your cockatiel to listen and then try to mimic you.

It is usually easier for a woman to teach a cockatiel to talk than it is for a man.

If you can make a recording for your cockatiel to listen too when you are not around will make the process faster. Just be careful to leave spaces on the recording between phrases, as the cockatiel may learn the words as a continuous phrase and just carry on repeating it. This will become extremely irritating.

Once your cockatiel has learnt his first phrase, you can move onto the next. Cockatiels can carry on learning words for many years.

Best Tricks in Training Cockatiels - Proven Results

Two of the greatest things that you can train your pet to do in cockatiel training are shoulder riding and speech. A cockatiels' speech may be incomparable to the parrots and the mynahs but they are comprehensible. When training your cockatiel, start with short words or expressions such as "baba", "hello" or "hi" or anything similar. Before teaching your bird another word, ensure that he has already mastered the first word you taught it. Training your cockatiel in speech will take a lot of patience and determination, but it will be attained.

One other cockatiel training mentioned is the shoulder training. This can be very helpful for a lot of owners as when achieved, you will be able to do things using your hand and your bird can just stay on your shoulder while you do your tasks. Some birds that have been successfully trained to do this would usually climb to your finger, your arm then sit on your shoulder. Doing this will make your pet and your lives easier as you can do things while they're on your shoulder, and your pet, can enjoy going around the house without any problems.

If you want your bird to be given this kind of cockatiel training, always remember that when your cockatiel shoulder rides, all of your accessories and jewelry should be watched over or removed so as your pet will not cause any damage. These are the type of things that cockatiels like to break and play with while on your shoulder and it can also be harmful to them for some things and reasons that we are not knowledgeable of.

One other thing that you should consider in cockatiel training most especially in shoulder riding is that cockatiels can be very light and you might forget that your pet is on your shoulder and can be hazardous to your bird. Always check your shoulder from time to time to be safe - do this especially when you are in the kitchen and you are doing some cooking or anything that involves a hot burner. This can be very dangerous for your pet. Not only are cockatiels light, they have a tendency of being very quiet to and it is not far from impossible to forget that your pet is actually sitting on your shoulder.

Some Interesting Facts on Breeding Cockatiels

Breeding cockatiels is not difficult, as long as the breeding pair are happy with their nesting arrangements. Male cockatiels will court all year round, so it is possible to breed cockatiels any time of the year. It is possible for some hens to breed more than once a year. Fortune obviously favors breeding in summer. A good breeding couple will be able to produce up to six youngsters in a clutch.

A cockatiel's success as a parent improves with age. For this reason breeders often place older cockatiels with younger ones. Cockatiels can breed successfully from about six months to well into their twenties. Cockatiels are known to form strong bonds with their mates, and these bonds often last until the death of one of the cockatiels. For this reason, it is good to introduce a breeding couple a few months before you intend to breed with them to allow them to get to know each other.

Most pairs will refuse to breed unless they have a nesting box. In the wild, cockatiels use holes in trees. A well constructed wooden box with a hole in it will be more than suitable for your cockatiels. The boxes should have tight fitting joints to protect from draughts, and the wood should be quite thick for insulation. The entrance hole and a perch should be towards the top of the box. The inside of the breeding box must be large enough to house both parent cockatiels and the young without crowding them too much.

Cockatiels never build a nest with nesting material, but rather lay their eggs on the floor of the wooden box. A handful of sawdust can be supplied to help absorb excess moisture and droppings. As the chicks grow a small amount of course clean sawdust can be added at a time.

The males have a breeding cry that they use to attract their partners. They are rather persistent and can make some weird and wonderful calls, which the females are unable to do. If the hen is ready for mating she will flatten herself and take her wings slightly away from her body. Mating will usually take place several times a day during the breeding season.

Males and females will be equally involved during the incubation period, especially towards the end when the eggs start to hatch. In most cases the male will incubate during the day, and the female at night as with most pigeons and doves.

Incubation normally lasts nineteen days, but cold weather can increase this time period. When the chicks hatch out, they will be helpless for the first ten days. The skin of the chicks is normally so translucent that the internal organs can be seen. A freshly hatched chick will need to be kept warm by its parents, as it will be unable to regulate its own body temperature. The chicks eyes will be mere slits at first before they slowly open and start to focus in on the world into which they have been born.

More About Cockatiels As Pets

The cockatiel is one of the most popular birds to keep among aviculturists, even though it is one of the most soberly colored members of the parrot family. Cockatiels as bird pets are second in popularity only to budgies. The reasons are mainly because of their hardiness, curiosity, adaptability and gentle disposition it seems. Cockatiels have also charmed many with their cute appearance and lovable personalities. Others are enchanted by the cockatiels whistling abilities, cleanliness and long potential life span.

In fact, cockatiels can be exceptional pets that reward their owners with years of entertaining companionship. In return the cockatiel asks only some attention and care from his owner.

The cockatiel has been a very popular pet for most of the twentieth century and according to the American Pet Product Manufacturer Association, about 16 million pet birds are kept in American homes and 34 percent of them are cockatiels.

As you already know the cockatiel originated in Australia, which is also home to some fifty other parrot species. In Australia the cockatiel is sometimes called the quarrion, the weero, the cockatoo parrot or the crested parrot. In the wild, small flocks of two to twelve cockatiels gather together to live in Australia's interior, and feed on seedling grasses and various other plants. Their habitats range from arid grasslands to open eucalyptus savannas.

Cockatiel flocks are very dependant on rainfall for water and once a steady supply of food and water are available, they will start with their breeding season.

Cockatiels in the wild are most active during the early morning and late afternoon. Pet cockatiels funnily enough still show these same characteristics, as they are noisier in the early mornings and early evenings. Cockatiels spend a large part of the day on the ground, searching for food, but spend the middle of the day blending into their surroundings by sitting lengthwise along dead tree branches that are free of foliage.

The cockatiel was first seen by naturalists who visited Australia with Captain James Cook in 1770. It is also believed that the first cockatiel specimen came to the Royal College of Surgeons Museum in England as a result of this trip.

The Australian government put a ban on the exporting of all native birds and parrots in 1894, so all the cockatiels in North America and Europe have resulted from domestic breeding efforts in these countries for more than 100 years.

Do You Want to Hand Feed Your Baby Cockatiels?

Beginners always dream about hand feeding their cockatiel chicks and having their cheeky pets in their shoulder, respond to calls just like the regular house dog. And yes, that is possible since parrots and its subspecies like the cockatiels do have higher intelligence compared to most animals, dogs included.

Though the results are truly rewarding, the first two months of love and labor that you will have to invest on it maybe too much for you, or even your family. Consider the following major factors.

Time. If the chick is pulled out from day one the first two weeks would almost take all of your time, the first five days will require you to feed the chicks every two hours. the interval will widen until the second week which you will have to feed them only two to three times a day.

Money and Equipment. Formulated baby food is expensive but that is not all that you need, a brooding box, temperature control device, nesting material, feeding tubes, feeding spoons, syringes and a sterilizer.

Strict Sanitation. A hand fed bird is expected to be more susceptible to diseases because the immunity that it supposed to receive from its feeding parents is incomplete. that is why unless one has no available option, pulling out a chick no older than two(2) weeks old is never recommended.

An Extra Hand. Beginners might be surprised what hit them, make sure help is available. No one including this author is prepared at the task until there is no point of return. The constant care that the duty requires leave no room for emergency leaves. So make sure you have a plan B and C. C for cockatiel

Cockatiels As Pets

Why you need a cockatiel as a pet

Cockatiels are delightful birds and make wonderful pets. Cockatiels are very popular as pets due to the fact that they are easy to care for, have wonderful joyful personalities, and outlive budgies by ten or more years. Cockatiels are affordable to purchase, unlike the bigger parrot varieties, and are a great bird to start off with if you are planning on starting an aviary. They make wonderful pets for children, as they are gentle and will only bite if not trained properly or ill treated. Make sure your child knows how to handle the bird gently.

A cockatiel in your home will brighten your life, with its gentle nature and happy disposition. They usually have very entertaining characters of their own and will keep you amused for ages. Cockatiels can be trained to mimic words, love to whistle, and have also been known to perform a variety of other tricks.

At the moment, the cockatiels is rated the most popular and widely kept of the 340 species of psittacine birds. They are quick to pick up words and phrases, and love to whistle. A cockatiels speech is not as clear as the bigger parrots, but they are a lot less expensive. A cockatiel makes a great pet for a novice bird lover and a great bird to start breeding with, if you are interested in breeding birds, as they are also one of the easiest of all the species to breed with and can thus be depended upon to pay their own feed bills.

A lot of breeders say that the breeding of cockatiels quickly becomes an addiction. It is an art in itself to get those perfect pairings, so that you can try and get more beautiful and bigger offspring. A lot of breeders also enter their cockatiels in bird shows in the hopes of winning with their healthy or rare projects.

Cockatiels originated from Australia, but can now be found in every country across the globe.. The oldest records of cockatiels as pets dates back to 1845, and it is said that they became popular as pets about forty years later. It is not known just when they were first imported, but they are said to have first been bred in captivity in 1845.

The name cockatiel is said to be an English adaptation of a Dutch Sailors pronunciation of the Portugese word 'cacatitho', which means little cockatoo. The scientific name for cockatiels is nymphicus hollandicus, and this name has been in use since the 1950's.

Cockatiels have taken well to captivity, and are easy to care for and feed. All they need to stay happy and healthy, is a spacious cage, a few bird toys, fresh food and water daily, and the pleasure of your company.

So You Want to Breed Cockatiels?

There comes a moment in every cockatiel owner's life when he is thinking about breeding his cockatiels. And every owner has his or her own reason for why he or she wants to breed, but actually that's not what really matters. What really matters is if that cockatiel owner has all the resources of time, knowledge and will to breed his cockatiels, so that everything goes without problems.

Also, it's also important to critically look at your own cockatiels and find out if you have the right bird to breed. For some owners this might be the hardest question to answer, but nonetheless it's the most important thing to answer.

You must answer this question mainly because breeding two birds that are not acceptable candidates for breeding might result in causing some serious damage to their cockatiel babies. Some might say that they are not going to be selling those babies anyway, but that's not the point. The thing is that some mutations can be really harmful to cockatiel babies' life and health.

But then again, what are those mysterious desirable features? Size (the bigger the better), talkability, adaptability in stressful situations, rare mutations are just a few to mention. What I always recommend to do before breeding your cockatiel is to consult with the books of show standards to see if your cockatiel has the desirable features to be a great candidate for breading.

But even though you may have a good breeding candidate, it still doesn't mean that all lights are green. You should sit down and think if you, yourself, have the right conditions to breed cockatiels. Do you have the right amount of knowledge? Will you have enough patience and time? Will this not interfere with your job or other responsibilities? Will you know what to do if something goes wrong? Will there be a quite place in your house, where you'll be able to put your cockatiels to enjoy peace and quiet? And that's just a little part of things that you must consider before breeding your cockatiels.

Breeding cockatiels is serious thing and I ask you to think and consider if you really want and have the right resources to do so. This is not something that can be decided in a second. You should weigh all those pros and cons and see if this is truly what you want.

Cockatiels As Pets - Best Practices to Prepare Yourself For New Cockatiel at Home

One of the popular birds preferred for a pet is the cockatiel. Pet enthusiasts have given consideration on cockatiels as pets primarily because of these birds' behavior and qualities. They are also known as little parrots with diverse color patterns and of course, a crest. Cockatiels are attractive, easy-to-tame and affable. With their size, some are convinced that they are easy to handle.

Any pet aficionado will adore raising cockatiels as pets because they simply are entertaining because of their specially ability in mimicking speech that they hear or taught upon. Quite the opposite, these birds are comparatively good in whistling several melodies that they either hear from or get taught as well. With these, you now know what type of talking parrots appear in some shows.

Should you choose cockatiels as pets, single out a hand-fed cockatiel that you can also supervise regularly. The prices of cockatiels differ depending on its color. Well, you can expect to shell out more amount of money for a cockatiel from decent breeders than getting from a pet store. But then, any expenditure of a good handled cockatiel is worth it.

Cockatiels as pets are obtainable from pet shops. Preferably, choose an active one. A cockatiel which quietly sits might be feeling sick and should be passed up by buyers. Their feathers should be supple, shiny and lays flat on their body. Feathers should be clean and dry. Look at their feet as their feet scales ought to be smooth. Their nails and nostrils must be in great condition and their beak should be well-shaped.

A proper cockatiel cage is another major thing to think about cockatiels as pets. Because of their playfulness, they have to be endowed with an ample-spaced cage. It should be at a minimum of 26 inches height and 20x20 inches width. Its spacing should not go over æ inches. Horizontal cages regularly provide a great way them to keep fit and climb perches. Few spaces should be provided as perches.

Cockatiels as pets entail giving suitable nourishment. Bird seeds are beneficial aspects of a cockatiel's diet. The problem is that they have high fat content. So, seeds must be given moderately. Experts can suggest a mere 30% of it. Conversely, pelleted diets are typically fine choices for birds as they are balanced and best of all, birds don't pick a favorite seed to eat a favorite kernel then just put down the remaining seeds.

Do You Have What It Takes to Hand Rear Baby Cockatiels

Hand rearing cockatiels is no easy task, but there are times when you will need to rear neglected chicks to ensure their survival, or simply to fetch a higher price when you sell them at a later stage.

If you notice that one of the chicks seems to be falling behind its nest mates, you can provide it with supplementary food in order to ensure its survival. You will need to feed it once in the morning and once in the evening. Reduce the time that the chick is away from the nesting box by preparing the food before removing the chick.

Offer the food to the chick on a teaspoon that has the edges bent inwards to form a sort of funnel. A spoon is better to use than a syringe, as it will allow the chick to eat at its own pace. With a syringe, you may force too much food into the chicks mouth and cause it to choke. After the feeding, always wipe the chicks beak carefully to remove any deposits of food. If the food sticks to the soft developing beak, it will sometimes cause the beak to become distorted.

Looking at the crop, which is at the base of the neck, will give a clear indication of whether the chick has eaten or not. If the crop is slack, the chick is hungry, and if it is whiter in color than the surrounding skin, then it is full. Feed the chick until the crop appears quite full, but mustn't look as though it is going to burst.

Hand reared chicks need to be fed regularly. Do not allow the crop to empty completely. Baby cockatiels will need to be fed three to four hourly. Most young parrots will gape for food, but cockatiels will move their heads in a bobbing fashion to elicit food from an adult bird. This will make it difficult to feed the chick until you get used to it.

If you are hand rearing the cockatiel away from its nest, you will need to keep it warm in a brooder. For new chicks the temperature should be at 37 degrees centigrade. Gradually reduce this to 27 degrees centigrade as the chicks get closer to two weeks old.

Although hand rearing cockatiels is rewarding, it is also hard work, so make sure that you are able to dedicate yourself to the task at hand before you take on the responsibility.

Goffin Cockatoos As Pet Parrots

Goffin cockatoos are quite small which makes them ideal for someone who wants a cockatoo but doesn't have the room for something the size of a Moluccan or Umbrella cockatoo. They are only about 12 inches in length and only slightly heavier than the cockatiel birds.

Their overall length is only 12 inches and some will say that they are the smallest cockatoo, but the cockatiel birds are actually smaller in body size, however their tail feathers give them a longer overall length. Goffin cockatoos are white with yellow under the tail, wing and ear coverlet feathers. They have pink feathers between the beak and the eyes and under their crests. Their crest which they raise when they are excited or frightened isn't as large in proportion to their body size as it is in the other cockatoos.

Don't let their small size fool you into thinking they can't be noisy. Although they aren't as loud as the larger cockatoos they do scream, especially in the morning and evening. The Goffins are very active parrots and require a constant supply of new toys as well as lots of attention to keep them occupied. Being as active as they are, they need a lot of room to move around and to play. The cage you get should be bigger than what is normal for this small a parrot.

Cockatoos in general are not known to be the best talkers, but some Goffins do develop an extensive vocabulary. They are great at solving puzzles and if you aren't careful to get a cage that has a locking door they will soon figure out how to open it and escape. If you have the time to spend socializing and training it a Goffin cockatoo is a playful, affectionate and loyal pet parrot.

Choosing the Right Pet Bird

OK! Now think, is this gonna be your 1st, 2nd, 3rd.... bird?

If this will be your first bird, then you should go with finches (zebra finches-$10), parakeet/budgie ($5-$100), cockatiel ($40-$100), lovebird ($40-$100), or dove ($20-$50)

Finches: Easy to care for, usually cannot be hand tamed, great watching birds though! They chirp about all day long. Cheap to keep! Prepare to spend about $10 per finch. A nice set up and 2 birds will cost you about $150.

Parakeet/Budgie: Easy to care for. Can be hand tamed. Can learn up to 800 words! They even mimic the owner's voice! Prepare to spend about $20-$30 a month each bird. A nice set up and bird will cost you about $150.

Cockatiel: Fairly easy to care for. Like to cuddle! Males like to cuddle more. Some cockatiels can learn to talk, some can't. NO bird is guaranteed to talk! Prepare to spend about $30-$40 a month on the bird. A nice set up and bird will cost you around $200-$250.

Lovebird- Can be NIGHTMARES without proper training! Can be LOUD! The bites hurt! But, when properly trained, they are awesome pets! They are good with tricks, too! Prepare to spend about $50 a month on the bird. A nice set up and bird will cost about $300.

Dove- Fairly easy to care for. Can be hand tamed. Like to cuddle. Prepare to spend about $30-$40 a month on the bird. A nice set up and bird will cost about $200.

If this will be your 2nd or 3rd bird then you should get a Senegal parrot ($200-$400), African gray parrot ($800-$1000), Amazon parrot ($700-$1000), or mini macaw ($700).

Senegal parrot- Like most smaller parrots. Can be loud, and love attention! Prepare to spend about $80-$90 a month on the bird. A nice set up and bird will cost about $800-$1000.

Basic Start To Breeding Cockatiels

The best way to start would be to eliminate all obstacles possible. Such as making sure you have a pair of cockatiels (male & female). Once establishing this the next thing is the cage. The standard breeding cage is 24" X 24" X 18" with the nest box either inserted with back access door to the front of cage, or attached to the outside of cage.

The nest box is important it can be various sizes, we use a nest that is about 8 wide x 10 deep x 12 high, and I have used smaller and larger. For very nervous pairs I use an angled very deep box and often paint the inside black or a dark color. This covers up the knots in the plywood and other imperfections in the wood that could be shadowy or look to the hen as though there were something else in her box besides herself, her mate, eggs, and or chicks. When I lived in Palm Beach, Florida I visited Loxahatchee where they were studying with painted or not painted nest boxes (inside) and it was observed time and again the birds with the painted inside boxes were much more relaxed, and produced better verses the ones that had unpainted plywood. Of course the paint must be safe, we have found and recommend, if on the can label it says safe for human baby furniture when dry it is safe.

Also keep in mind the placement of the entrance hole (about 3 to 4 inches across) to the nesting box should be high on the box. So not to allow eggs or babies to fall out. It is also best to have the inspection door to the back or side of the nesting box verses the top. Top doors cause the birds to get more nervous because they feel trapped and can not get out through the hole without you hovering over them, and this often causes them to bare down on the eggs and babies, or even thrashing around in the box because you have scared them unintentionally causing them to crack eggs and or harm to their own chicks. With a back or side inspection door they seem to get out through the hole much easier, calmer, and safer for all. Of course there are always exceptions, I have a few hens that won't budge for anything (very devoted) I actually have to reach in and lift them up to see their eggs and or chicks, then gently place them back down, and they act as if nothing has happened. * Please note not to try this first, and keep cards on your birds so that you will know your birds better, and even come to know which ones will do what consistently. Such as in the case of fostering eggs and or chicks some will only take chicks and or eggs if they are at the same stage and age of their own eggs and or chicks. Some pairs will not foster at all, these are the things you need to keep track of so when you might need to do this you will know which pair will foster and not have to leave it to chance.

I have one pair that are the exception to the rule, put a baby cockatiel or cockatoo in their nesting box and no matter what else they have going on chicks of their own or not, they will feed and care for it. I love that pair!

Another thing I always do so not to alarm my birds, is talk to them as I walk up, and I tap lightly on the box (I say the same thing everyday when inspecting, they know it's me, and know exactly what I am about to do). I try to inspect boxes at the same time when ever I am inspecting and not at random. I almost always feed at the same time everyday, some birds get fed two and three times a day if they are feeding chicks. This makes the meals they feed their chicks fresh. Just because they have food in the bowl at the time you check and they have chicks doesn't always mean that is what they will feed their chicks. Feed extra stuff, feed a variety, feed things they might not normally eat, often they will when having chicks eat things they usually don't at other times. If there is a certain seed or food they have completely eaten but not eaten the rest replace it anyway or you could loose chicks. Because to them they didn't feel it was adequate for there family to survive on. This is definitely not the time to force your pair to eat everything on there plate before you replace or add what they are looking for. In the wild often chicks are allowed to die because of a shortage of food, if the parents can see there is not enough food to successfully raise all four babies then they will only raise the strongest of the clutch. It seems cruel but this is natures way, and for the species it is better for one or two to survive than if the parents stretched the little food they could find, weakening all the chicks, that leads to all of there chicks not surviving.

I feel time is very important to them and feeding them at random is so unfair, (don't you want to know when you will be eating, and how about those that get forgotten until the next day)? If you want to breed successfully be constant and they will produce well. In the wild they go for years sometimes without breeding and producing, because due to a food shortage they know they can not successfully raise a family so they don't.

You should have a nice three inches or so of pine shavings in the bottom of the nest box. Don't use cedar chips or cedar shavings, because the oils of the cedar are naturally strong scented, and can burn tiny developing lungs. Stay away from shavings that came from a mill that may have lead paint chips, metal fragments from nicked nails, and even toxins from pressure treated wood mixed in with these wood shavings.

The placement of the perch is very important, first of all do not place the perch over the food or water bowls, for sanitary reasons. The perch must be secure, not loose, and wobbly. Because cockatiels breed by mounting you need to make sure there is sufficient room to do that. They don't necessarily always breed on the perch, but again if your pair chooses too they can. You wouldn't want a loose or unstable perch to be the cause of infertile eggs.

When feeding your pair it is important to remember if you want them to be successful at raising a family you must provide, (not what's adequate) an abundance of food. In the wild cockatiels go for long periods of time not raising young. Due to insufficient food, drout, or bad weather conditions, I can not stress this enough.

Many books recommend hard boiled eggs chopped finely and offered to the birds, the problem with that is it can become rancid and reach toxic levels in a very short time. We suggest making a corn bread with extra eggs, and if it's in hot weather substitute the milk for orange juice, which will be much less likely to spoil. Some birds like just plain bread, just remember to remove and discard soft foods even if all is not eaten, and provide fresh. Fresh water daily is very important, and if you use water bottles change them daily as well. Would you want to drink water left sitting out since yesterday, just because it looks clean? Those of us that took chemistry and or dabbled with the microscopes can tell you that even clear looking water, that has been sitting warming especially on a summer day, is not what it seems. Put under a scope and all those little friendly critters in that water (that weren't there several hours ago) will be waving back at you, any body thirsty? So change that water!

Cockatiels are grain eaters, but I have found I can sneak things they won't eat normally into the corn bread, after blending it in the blender. A good seed diet, spray millet, even things like wheat checks, rice checks, puffed wheat, etc., are all relished by cockatiels. And I have never met a cockatiel that didn't love popcorn.

Some people like to recycle food, we do not do this. To start with, it's not sanitary if you have more than one pair, your spreading germs. And if you have one bird that gets ill rest assured it will spread to many of your birds on that recycled food.

As the pair of Cockatiels start to show interest in the nest it is usually the male that enters the nest first. He will inspect it and move the wood chips around to his liking, in hopes that it will be an appealing place to his mate as well. When he feels he has achieved this he will begin to court the hen he will sing to her and as the hens often seem to ignore her suitor, he will of course try harder. He'll sing in her face, he will bill beat his beak to make a knocking sound inside and out of the nest. When she does show interest (it doesn't always happen right away) and they mate it will take two or more weeks to lay an egg, provided everything is to their liking. Keep in mind they can only work with what we have provided them as there comforts of home, and some times they don't breed because they feel something vital is missing.

I always love hearing things like: There a proven pair and I'm not getting any eggs or babies. That's when I usually notice something like lack of a good diet, no extras to stimulate them into thinking they have enough food to raise a family or the nest box is in a bad placement or worse on the floor. What gives, the birds can't get out and get these things right themselves, you must provide a proper situation for them. I would rather do more for a pair then needed, then too possibly leave something out that could prevent them from raising.

Once the hen starts to lay she will brood in the box in advance of laying her first egg, and once she does lay it will be every other day until she has completed her clutch (a group of eggs, that will basically be her litter). The average clutch is about 4 to 8 eggs, but we have had many a hen far pass that, and I don't mean double clutching (starting a second clutch of eggs on top of the first, or right after the first) some hens are just extraordinary.

Depending on whether the pair starts incubating with the first egg or wait for the second to start brooding, and some even wait until they have laid the whole clutch. So you can see where incubation time can vary drastically, from 18 days if they start with the first egg to 24 days or more. Or even if the pair gets off the nest more often then most this will and can lengthen the incubation time. So don't just up and throw those eggs out, at least candle them first. One lady called me recently for advise, she had her first pair of Cockatiels lay eggs and was told they would not be good so through them out. I was horrified, I'll admit often they aren't, but what if this time there are good at least wait and find out. Incidentally the eggs the lady had were good and even hatched and the inexperienced pair raised quite a nice family! Sometimes you can expect the unexpected, other times it is a waiting game, things can just plain take time.

As the pair incubate there eggs, you will most likely if all is going well see the hen sitting the eggs after she has laid her clutch at night, where as the male will sit during the day. Sometimes they will both be in there brooding the eggs and keeping each other company. Each pair is individual and can vary on how they do things, but they all follow the same procedure some what. In other words we humans generally carry our children 9 months, and most often have them in a hospital, and that is all considered normal. Use that as a guide reality check, cause we whom have not experience having babies in a cab, on the freeway, or on the way to the hospital, at least have a general idea that this could happen. As is the case with some birds, expect the unexpected, and be prepared for everything as best you can.

How To Fix Your Parrot's Problems - Parrot Behavior Training

If you are a parrot owner, maybe you have a lot of problems with your bird pet. It is possible that your parrot, parakeet or cockatiel bites you or attacks anyone that comes near its cage. Whatever the case, we are always facing a "behavior problem" that can be fixed with the correct behaviour training.

If you were already thinking that your wild parrot had no cure for its mean attitude, screaming all day long, biting you or your family and behaving like if it was just taken from the wild forest, I can tell you there is a cure for your parrot's mean behaviour.

The key element here is discipline. A well trained parrot will be a happier parrot, and its interaction with its owner, the family and other pets will also be easier and in a smooth mood.

Another very important thing to consider is the owner's attitude. Without realizing, you can influence in a very important way your parrot's behaviour. If you are angry, your parrot will also behave that way, so you should first of all make sure that you are well rested and calm before you attempt any kind of training with your parrot. This will ensure a pleasant and happy experience for both your parrot and you, its owner.

In many occasions, the way to face behavior problems is also a matter of your parrot trusting you or not. I can give you a couple of advices or tips so you can get your parrot, parakeet or cockatiel to trust you a little bit more than it usually does.

- Hand Treats - Move slowly and offer your bird a treat in your hand. If you do this, you will be teaching your bird pet how to trust you. This simple strategy will bring a lot of positive attitude in order to change any unwanted parrot behavior.

- Step up Training - The following strategy you need to teach to your bird pet is to step up onto your hand when you say the words "step up". The first time you try this gently press against your parrot's belly at the same time you say "step up" clear and slow. It is very important that you keep repeating these words and pressing the parrot's belly until is steps into your hand.

Talking is another key element in a parrot's behaviour training. You should start with a simple "hello" and stay repeating the same word constantly until your pet repeats the word clearly. Only after the first word is already learnt and spoken clearly you will keep teaching the second word, and so on. You have to be constant and patient. Your parrot will feel it and will become more and more trustful and careful towards you.

Just to give you an example, a 19 minute lesson, once per day during 2 weeks is enough to change an unwanted and wild be havior in a parrot, parakeet or cockatiel.

Training Your New Cockatiel

Once you have introduced your new cockatiel into your home, provided the proper cage and attachments and finished your research and have decided on a proper diet, the next chore should be training your new feathered friend. This can be the most enjoyable of all the tasks necessary when owning a new bird because you will be enacting with your bird and should began noticing an instant change in it's behavior. Now your patience will began to show progress.

A new bird will naturally be anxious the first few days in it's new home. It must be convinced that it is not to come to any harm from these new surroundings. You would do well to leave your bird alone for the first few days while it acclimates itself to it's new home. But following the first few days it's training should began at once.

Start by placing a gloved hand it the cage and slowly moving it up and down. A new bird especially if it is young should very quickly become comfortable with your hand and soon perch upon it. Patience and caution are needed here. If the bird begins to flutter widely do not remove your hand. Continue to hold your hand in the cage and slowly move it up and down. Once your bird is comfortable with your hand you can began extending a finger as a perch. Hopefully you have given you bird a short easily spoken name. Each time you bring the bird food or water or clean it's cage repeat the name. This is an important step in getting the bird familiar with you.

Once your bird is comfortable on your finger it is time to allow it's first adventure outside the cage. On it's first few outings it will most likely be very active flying about to inspect every part of it's new surrounds. Now is the time to teach the bird to return to it's cage if it does not do so on it's own. Establish a one word voice command. Then approach the bird slowly and hold out your finger. Sometimes with a new active bird this may be more difficult. You may have to use a longer perch and encourage the bird with a food treat. Placing the bird back in the cage while clearly speaking the voice command should quickly train your bird to reenter it's cage when you call.

This is very basic training and once your cockatiel is comfortable with this you can began to train it further by teaching it to move from hand to hand and began to do tricks. Remember this is one reason you purchased a cockatiel in the first place. To enjoy it's company. With care and patience you and your bird will become close friends and share many delightful hours together.

Cockatiel Bird Cages - Making the Right Choice

There are several things to consider when looking for a cage to purchase for your Cockatiel. Cockatiels make excellent pets so you'll want to make the best possible choice for its home to bring out the best in your feathered friend.

When considering a cage for your cockatiel think about the location you will be using. You'll want a place away from drafty areas such as outside doors and away from windows that are used and sometimes left open. Birds are social creatures, so put your cockatiel's home in an area where there is plenty of activity. An engaged bird is a happy bird. Although Cockatiels are one of the easiest breeds to have as a pet, they still will need a good deal of attention to thwart any negative behavior.

You'll want the right size of cage for your cockatiel so look for a cage that is at least 22" X 22". Some say that a smaller cage is better so that the bird will want to get out when you get home. But I believe that if your cockatiel is well socialized, it will want to join its "flock", that is, you or your family when you let it out. And remember, Cockatiels can live for more than 30 years, so give them room to stretch their wings from time to time! You want a happy friend, not a bird that is discontented and screeching all the time.

Some other features you will want to have in your Cockatiel's home include horizontal bars. The bird will climb up and down them and get some exercise. Shape of the cage is also important. Round cages are confusing to a bird and generally more difficult to clean, whereas a square or rectangular cage will be easier to clean and gentler to the birds psyche. Cockatiels also enjoy stands and perches, so a cage with a perch on top will add to your bird's enjoyment of its home.

Finally, when you have chosen your new cage and it has finally arrived at your home, carefully clean and inspect it for sharp or hazardous items that might injure your bird. Remember, craftsmanship counts, so buy the best that you can afford for years of enjoyment. And don't forget to fill your feathered friend's home with colorful toys, soft accessories and a small bird bath with a food tray to spoil your friend with their favorite foods. To see some of the best cages available, please visit our site below.