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Saturday, May 7, 2011

Cockatiel Cage Selection


The cage requirements are important, don't get a cage that is to small, 18 x 18 x 18 or larger is even better. I like a cage with a large door, this makes it easier to get the bird in and out of the cage. There are many shapes and sizes on the market and of course you can always make your own. Provided you pay strict attention to loose galvanized particles and the fact that these carry zinc coating that can be toxic. Clean it well and brush off any loose particles of metal. (Please see our article on Zinc Toxicosis, on our Marvin's Tips page) This goes for store bought cages that are made of galvanized wire also. A wide cage is more practical than a tall cage, since birds fly horizontal and not straight up and down. Plus if the food cups are up high in a tall cage the seeds that fall out will fall much further out faster, making for greater mess. Ornamental cages with really smaller bottoms are not practical, for the simple reason if the bird soils straight from the perch that is not positioned over the smaller tray, guess what it won't miss your floor.
I like a cage that is square, although the dome tops are beautiful you can't put a perch or play stand on top of it. Of course you can place this some where else if you are not cramped for space as some people are, I have friends in school apartments with little space, but have made unique play stations on top of a flat top cage. Or if you are lucky enough to get one that the top opens into a play station.
The perches for your pet are important also, you don't want perches that are to small that will cause the nails to over grow. I like perches of more than one size because Cockatiels like all birds spend so much time on their feet. This way they are less likely to build up calluses and don't have to rest their feet in the exact same spot all the time.
The cups in the store bought cage often comes with a hood, which is less mess for us, but can be an obstacle to a young Cockatiel looking for it's food and water. Please remove the hoods at least until the young bird gets to know it's cage. Personally I do not use the hoods for Cockatiels at all, because most of them are to small to start with (sized more for a budgie). Try not to place your perches over the cups because your bird will soil it's food and water. Clean the cups often (as you do your own dishes), and the perches can be cleaned with mild soapy water, but make sure to rinse well and let them dry completely before returning them to the cage. I keep extra perches on hand so I can switch them out, and not have to worry if they will dry in time and that way I always have a clean set. It's a real good idea to clean the cage often, especially the bottom. After cleaning the cage in mild soapy water and rinsing well it's great to sit it out in the sun to dry. Sunshine kills a multitude of unforeseen germs and bacteria, without harming the paint finish that may be on your cage, if this is the type you have.
Breeding cockatiels, macaws, cockatoos and various other birds has brought to my attention the need for information about selecting a proper cage for a bird, as so often I see them housed in a cage that is way too small

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